Great kitchen lighting design typically utilises a large amount of lighting (which means more than just installing a few extra ceiling roses). Kitchen lighting needs a variety of types of lighting for different areas and purposes. The absolutely worst way to illuminate a kitchen is using bright fluorescent ceiling strip lights. They’re certainly very bright – but also flat, cold and guaranteed to give you a headache into the bargain.

The most obvious issue with having central ceiling-rose fittings in a kitchen is that they produce dark spots, most noticeably where you cast your own shadow onto work surfaces. A solution seen in many kitchens involves fitting halogen down lamps in a uniform pattern across the ceiling then adding task-specific lighting for workareas, hobs and so on.

This solution works reasonably well, but does have its own downsides: halogen lamps operate at extremely high temperatures, don’t last very long, and are without rival as the most expensive means of lighting a kitchen. Some 90% of the cost of incandescent lighting (of which halogen is an extreme example) is the electricity they use.

This in large part explains the rise in popularity of ultra low energy, cool running, LED kitchen lighting. For mains voltage lighting, all that is required is to replace existing GU10 spotlights in-situ with GU10 LEDs. For low voltage systems, replace existing 12v transformers with one (or more, depending on the number of lights involved) constant voltage 12v LED driver and then change over to LED light bulbs.

When installing LED spotlights there are 3 main areas to bear in mind, these being: brightness (or luminosity); colour temperature (whether the light appears cool and blue or warm and yellow); and beam angle (tightly focused or widely dispersed). It’s a good idea to get as close as possible on these three areas to the qualities of the halogen lamps you’re replacing.

We have become accustomed to rating brightness by wattage, but the rated wattage for an LED light bulb should be about 10% that of the equivalent normal incandescent or halogen bulb. So expect to replace a 35w halogen lamp with an LED rated 3w or greater, 50w requires a 5w LED and so on.

Color temperature is used to measure how warm or cool a light seems. LED lights are available in a variety of white color temperatures (and also, colors) but since it has always been easier to manufacture blue LEDs, many cheap LEDs tend to have a cold/bluish tinge. Go for warm white (color temperatures below 3500K) for a reasonable approximation to the kind of white light normally associated with halogen lamps.

A narrow beam angle, say 45 degrees, makes any light appear tighter and more contained to a defined spot, whereas a much wider 120 degrees spreads the light out evenly, eliminating glare and “hot-spots”. Quite possibly the best LED spot light currently available that acts as a straightforward halogen replacement is the Sharp Zenigata.

Determining how artificial light appears to the eye often owes less to the light itself than to the surface it is aimed at. A warm feeling is easily obtained by pointing spot lighting at areas that are themselves warmly colored, such as terracotta tiling, any type of wood or even just a warmly painted wall. By contrast, a dramatic effect can be had by simply throwing blue LED light against dark or hard surfaces – blue or green tiles, granite, enamel and steel all lend themselves to this treatment.

Mixing a variety of lights that offer different characteristics with a range of textures and colors makes it possible to obtain an extensive palette of effects for the various zones in your kitchen. LED strip lighting systems in particular offer all manner of options for accenting plinths, coving, worktops and pretty much anything else you could imagine. But at the end of the day though, once you’re done playing with all the new ideas on offer, try and settle on just a few designs that really appeal – it’s quite surprising how impressive even a bit of LED kitchen lighting appears.